Maltese Lace: A Guide to Bizzilla

The story of Maltese lace is a narrative of survival and reinvention. For centuries, from the 16th to the 19th, the islands produced exquisite needle lace. However, a period of economic depression in Malta nearly caused this beautiful craft to vanish completely. The turning point arrived in the mid-1800s, a moment of profound change orchestrated by Lady Hamilton Chichester. Recognising the craft's potential, she sent lacemakers from Genoa to Malta. These artisans brought with them the technique of bobbin lace, a faster method of production than the intricate needlework that had come before. They ingeniously adapted the old Maltese needle lace patterns into this new bobbin format, which proved to be more efficient. This crucial introduction did not simply replicate an existing style; it sparked the development of a new, distinctive Maltese aesthetic, inspired by Genoese lace but imbued with a character that was unmistakably local. This revival laid the foundation for the *bizzilla* we know today.

The revival of Maltese lace culminated in a moment of international acclaim that cemented its reputation for quality and artistry. In 1851, Maltese lace was featured at The Great Exhibition in London, a global showcase of innovation and design. The response was immediate and overwhelming; the lace became immensely popular in Britain. Its influence extended beyond mere popularity, as lacemakers in the English Midlands began to copy its distinctive style, contributing to the development of what would become Bedfordshire lace. The admiration for Maltese craftsmanship was so widespread that even Queen Victoria became a notable admirer, frequently wearing Malta lace and thereby elevating its prestige to the highest levels. This royal endorsement, coupled with the praise from figures like Thomas McGill, who noted in his 1839 guidebook that 'the females of the island make also excellent lace; the lace mitts and gloves wrought by the Malta girls are bought by all ladies coming to the island,' established Maltese lace as a coveted luxury item across Europe.

Identifying authentic Maltese lace requires an eye for specific, defining characteristics that set it apart from other bobbin lace traditions. The most common material is cream silk thread, though historically, black silk was also used, and occasionally linen thread is employed. The patterns are deeply symbolic, often incorporating the eight-pointed Maltese cross, which is typically worked in whole or cloth stitch. Perhaps the most telling feature is the design of the leaves. Maltese lace is known for its distinctive plump, rounded leaves, which artisans call 'wheat ears' or 'oats.' These are markedly different from the long, narrow leaves found in other bobbin lace styles. Larger pieces of Maltese lace are not made as a single, continuous sheet; they are constructed by sewing together two or more smaller sections, a practical aspect of the craft that also serves as a clue to its construction method.

The creation of Maltese lace is inseparable from its unique tools, each designed for a specific purpose in the intricate process. The craft is worked as a continuous width on a tall, thin, upright lace pillow known locally as a *Trajbu* (pronounced 'try-boo'). This specific shape allows the lacemaker to maintain tension and control the threads while working the bobbin lace. The threads themselves are managed using slender tools called bobbins, known in Maltese as *Ċombini* (pronounced 'chom-beany'). These bobbins are not just holders for the thread; they are weighted and manipulated to create the complex twists and plaits that form the lace's structure. The use of this particular combination of *Trajbu* and *Ċombini* is a hallmark of the traditional Maltese technique, a method preserved and passed down through generations, particularly in the island of Gozo.

Far from being a relic of the past, Maltese lace continues to be a living, breathing craft, practised throughout Malta and Gozo as a cottage industry. To ensure the survival of this traditional art form, formal education plays a crucial role. The craft is actively taught in government trade schools for girls, embedding the skills within the younger generation. Beyond formal education, private bodies like the Society of Arts, Manufactures and Commerce also organise special evening classes, opening the craft to a wider audience. This dual approach of institutional and community-based teaching ensures that the meticulous techniques and cultural significance of *bizzilla* are not lost. The lace remains relevant in contemporary Maltese culture, used to create practical items like tablecloths, placemats, and serviettes, while also occasionally appearing in couture fashion and traditional Maltese costume, bridging the gap between heritage and modernity.

While the craft is practised across the Maltese islands, Gozo stands as the undisputed heart of Maltese lace making. The tradition here is more vibrant and well-preserved than anywhere else, with the craft passed down through families and communities. The island's slower pace of life and strong cultural identity have provided the perfect environment for this delicate art to flourish. For visitors, Gozo offers the most authentic experience of witnessing Maltese lace in action. You can find lacemakers, often elderly women, sitting in their doorways or in small, dedicated workshops, their hands deftly working the bobbins on the *Trajbu*. The sound of the bobbins clicking together and the sight of the intricate patterns emerging from a single thread is a captivating cultural encounter. This is where the history of the lace feels most immediate and tangible, making Gozo an essential destination for anyone interested in Malta's traditional crafts.

For the curious traveller, experiencing Maltese lace extends beyond simply observing a lacemaker at work. Gozo remains the primary destination, with numerous workshops and small shops where you can watch the creation process and purchase authentic pieces directly from the artisans. These shops often display a range of items, from small, delicate bookmarks and collars to larger, more ambitious pieces like tablecloths and wedding veils. While the source material does not name specific towns beyond Gozo, a visit to the island's craft centres and local markets will invariably lead you to this tradition. Engaging with the lacemakers themselves offers a deeper understanding of the craft's history and the skill required. Whether you are a collector, a history enthusiast, or simply someone who appreciates fine craftsmanship, seeking out these centres in Gozo provides a direct connection to a centuries-old Maltese heritage that continues to be made by hand today.