Santa Marija Bay Comino Guide

Santa Marija Bay presents a stark contrast to the more famous, and often crowded, Blue Lagoon. Located on Comino's eastern coast, this small sandy beach is the island's most sheltered, making it an ideal spot for swimming when the Mediterranean winds pick up elsewhere. The waters here are notably calm, inviting a gentle dip rather than the more boisterous swimming found in other parts of the Maltese archipelago. The atmosphere is defined by tranquility, offering visitors a genuine sense of the island's natural character without the tourist crowds that flock to other parts of Comino. During the summer months, a small kiosk operates directly on the beach, providing a convenient source of drinks and snacks. This simple amenity, run by locals, adds to the authentic, unpretentious feel of the place. The bay is not just a beach; it's the heart of the island, where the tiny community lives and works, offering a glimpse into a way of life that has remained largely unchanged for decades. For UK visitors seeking a serene swimming spot away from the more crowded areas of Malta, Santa Marija Bay provides a perfect, peaceful alternative. To get to Comino, you can fly to Malta and then take a ferry or boat transfer from the main island or from Gozo.

Dominating the skyline above Santa Marija Bay stands the Chapel of Our Lady's Return from Egypt, a structure of profound historical and cultural significance. This chapel is one of the oldest on the island, a silent testament to Comino's enduring religious heritage. Records suggest a chapel has existed on this site since at least the 12th century, with the current building constructed in 1618 and subsequently enlarged over the centuries. The bay itself derives its name from this sacred site, linking the natural landscape to the island's spiritual identity. The chapel's history is deeply intertwined with the lives of Comino's former residents. In days gone by, when the sea was too rough for priests to make the crossing from Gozo, the islanders would gather at Tal-Ħmara and follow the Mass being celebrated in Gozo through a complex flag code system, demonstrating the chapel's role as a focal point for spiritual connection even in isolation. Today, the chapel stands as a prominent landmark, its presence adding a layer of historical depth to a visit to the bay, offering more than just a beach day but a connection to centuries of Maltese history.

What truly sets Santa Marija Bay apart is its connection to the people who call Comino home. The bay is not merely a tourist destination; it is the home of Comino's tiny community. For centuries, this isolated community sustained itself through subsistence farming, fishing, and bird-hunting. Among the interconnected families who preserved this unique way of life were the Said, Buttigieg, and Vella lines, who originated from northern Malta and Gozo. These families cultivated terraced fields of onions, potatoes, figs, and barley, raised pigs, and maintained the island's vital rainwater wells and the chapel. The population numbered around 17 in the early 20th century but dwindled to just three by the 2010s due to emigration and the rise of tourism. Remarkably, a traditional way of life continues. As of 2025, Evangelista 'Veggie' Buttigieg remains one of Comino's two permanent residents, alongside Salvu Vella, carrying on the legacy of their ancestors. Their presence is a living link to the past, offering visitors a rare chance to see an authentic, traditional Maltese way of life that has resisted the march of modernity.

While Santa Marija Bay offers a peaceful retreat, it also serves as an excellent starting point for exploring more of Comino. For those wishing to experience the island's most famous attraction, a well-marked path connects Santa Marija Bay to the Blue Lagoon. The walk takes approximately 20 minutes and offers a change of scenery, from the quiet residential bay to the more dramatic, open coastline. This route allows visitors to enjoy the best of both worlds: the serene atmosphere of Santa Marija Bay in the morning and the vibrant, turquoise waters of the Blue Lagoon in the afternoon. For those looking to extend their stay on the island, there are a few hotels in Malta and guesthouses on Comino, though options are limited due to the island's small size and protected status. Planning a Malta holiday that includes a day trip to Comino is a popular choice for many UK visitors, offering a perfect blend of relaxation and adventure. The island's small size makes it easy to explore on foot, with the walk between the two bays being a highlight of any visit.

Beneath the calm surface of the waters near Santa Marija Bay lies a world waiting to be explored by diving enthusiasts. The bay and its surrounding coastline are home to several notable dive sites that offer a different perspective on Comino's natural beauty. The Santa Marija Reef Dive Site, located at coordinates 36.0190, 14.3404, is a popular spot for underwater exploration, featuring a rich variety of marine life and interesting underwater topography. Nearby, Santa Marija Point at coordinates 36.0751, 14.2586 offers another excellent diving location, where divers can discover underwater caves and rock formations teeming with fish. These dive sites provide a fantastic opportunity to experience the clear, Mediterranean waters that make Malta a world-class diving destination. For those interested in underwater activities, combining a visit to the peaceful beach with a dive or snorkel trip creates a full day of adventure, showcasing both the tranquility above the water and the vibrant life below it.

Comino's story is one of dramatic transformation, from a self-sufficient farming community to a tourist destination. The island's history is deeply connected to its small farming community, which largely engaged in subsistence farming, fishing, and bird-hunting. These families, including the Said, Buttigieg, and Vella lines, cultivated the land and maintained the chapel, preserving a traditional way of life without electricity until the 1950s. This isolated existence changed dramatically in 1960 when the British government controversially granted a 150-year lease of the island to British property magnate John Gaul on a near-peppercorn rent of €100 per year (equivalent to $2,000 in 2025). The terms obliged Gaul's Comino Development Ltd to establish a 200-room hotel on Comino by 1963, though the lease was later renegotiated to a smaller area. This event marked the beginning of Comino's shift towards tourism, a process that would eventually lead to the development of the Blue Lagoon and the changes seen on the island today.

For UK visitors planning a trip to Santa Marija Bay, a little preparation goes a long way. The best way to reach Comino is by ferry or boat transfer from the main island of Malta or from Gozo. Numerous operators run daily trips, especially during the peak summer season, making it easy to include Comino in your itinerary of things to do in Malta. Once on the island, getting around is simple; the small size of Comino means you can easily walk between Santa Marija Bay and the Blue Lagoon in about 20 minutes. When packing, remember to bring essentials like sun protection, a towel, and perhaps a snorkel to explore the clear waters. The summer kiosk at the bay provides basic refreshments, but it's wise to carry your own water, especially on hot days. For those looking to stay overnight, options are limited but do exist, offering a truly immersive experience of island life. Getting around Malta is straightforward, with regular ferry services connecting the three islands, making Comino an accessible and rewarding day trip from either Malta or Gozo.