Rabat: Malta's Ancient Suburb of Mdina

Rabat takes its name from the Arabic word for "suburb," and that is precisely what it has been for over a thousand years: the town that grew up around the walls of Mdina after the ancient Roman city of Melite was reduced in size. Step below its streets, though, and you find something far older than any suburb — a vast underground world of catacombs, Roman villas and early Christian burial chambers that make Rabat one of the most archaeologically significant towns in Malta. Above ground, its star-shaped streets, traditional wooden balconies and unhurried cafés give it a character distinct from, but every bit as compelling as, the "Silent City" it borders.

The History of Rabat

Rabat occupies part of the site of Melite, the ancient Roman capital of Malta, which once extended far beyond the much smaller walled city of Mdina that survives today. Roman law forbade burials within city walls, so the area now known as Rabat became the city's cemetery — a Punic, Roman and later Christian burial ground that grew into an extensive network of underground catacombs, some in continuous use for over a thousand years. Tradition holds that the Apostle Paul, shipwrecked on Malta in AD 60, sheltered in a cave here, and the grotto beneath the present St Paul's Collegiate Church still bears his name, even if firm archaeological proof is lacking. Following the Arab period in the 11th century, Rabat was administratively separated from Mdina, and the town that grew up outside Mdina's gates has carried the name of a suburb ever since — a "suburb" now recognised as one of Malta's richest archaeological sites.

What to See in Rabat

St Paul's Catacombs are Malta's largest and most important underground burial complex, covering over 2,000 square metres and comprising more than thirty interconnected hypogea, with more than twenty open to visitors. In continuous use from the Punic-Roman period through to the early Byzantine era, they represent the earliest and most extensive archaeological evidence of Christianity on the island, with Christian, Jewish and pagan graves found side by side. Nearby, St Agatha's Catacombs offer a similarly atmospheric underground experience, alongside a small museum of finds. Above ground, the Domus Romana houses the remains of a wealthy 1st-century BC Roman townhouse, its mosaic floors remarkably well preserved beneath what later became an 11th-century Arab cemetery. In the town centre, St Paul's Collegiate Church sits above St Paul's Grotto, a cave associated with the saint's traditional stay on the island, and the two together form one of Rabat's most visited sites.

Food and Dining in Rabat

Rabat's cafés and restaurants have a well-earned reputation for good, honest Maltese cooking, drawing on the same rural hinterland that has fed Mdina and its suburb for centuries. Look for *fenek* stew, fresh local cheeselets, and freshly baked bread, often served in family-run establishments a short walk from the catacombs. Given its position beside Mdina, Rabat makes a natural lunch stop before or after exploring the walled city, without the higher prices sometimes found immediately inside Mdina's gates.

Festivals and Traditions in Rabat

Rabat's parish feast honours St Paul, marked by the traditional Maltese blend of solemn procession, brass band and fireworks that fills the town's main streets each year. Given the town's deep association with the saint's shipwreck and stay on Malta, the feast carries particular significance here, drawing residents and visitors alike into streets decorated for the occasion. Beyond the main festa, Rabat's calendar of church-based traditions reflects its status as one of Malta's oldest and most historically layered communities.

Getting to Rabat

Regular bus services connect Rabat to Valletta and other major towns across Malta, with the journey typically taking around 30 to 40 minutes depending on the route. Rabat sits directly beside Mdina, connected by St Paul Street running from Mdina's gate to St Paul's Square, so the two are easily explored together on foot. From Malta International Airport, connect via Valletta to reach Rabat, or arrange a taxi directly.

Best Time to Visit Rabat

Spring and autumn offer the most comfortable conditions for exploring both the underground catacombs and Rabat's exposed streets above. Summer heat is less of an issue underground, where the catacombs stay cool year-round, but daytime walking between sites is more pleasant outside peak summer months. Visiting alongside Mdina, which is at its most atmospheric in the early morning or evening light, makes for a natural full-day itinerary regardless of season.

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