Xewkija: A Hidden Gem in Gozo

Xewkija, one of Gozo’s oldest and most tranquil villages, exudes a quiet charm that feels worlds away from the bustle of Malta. Its winding streets, honey-hued limestone houses, and the imposing Rotunda church dominate the skyline, creating a landscape that feels both ancient and alive. Here, life moves at a slower pace, where locals gather in piazzas to chat and the air is thick with the scent of jasmine and baking bread. What makes Xewkija worth visiting is its unspoiled authenticity—a place where tradition isn’t just preserved but lived, offering visitors a rare glimpse into the soul of Gozo.

The History of Xewkija

Xewkija’s roots stretch back to Malta’s Neolithic era, with evidence of early settlements found in nearby sites like the Ġgantija temples. The village itself is believed to have been established during the Arab period, when its name likely derived from the Arabic word *‘shawqa,’* meaning ‘thorn,’ a nod to the thorny bushes that once dotted the area. Under the Knights of St. John, Xewkija flourished as an agricultural hub, its fertile lands supplying Valletta with produce. The village’s most transformative moment came in the 20th century with the construction of the Rotunda, a bold statement of faith that replaced the original 18th-century church, symbolizing Xewkija’s enduring spiritual and cultural identity.

What to See in Xewkija

The crown jewel of Xewkija is undoubtedly the Rotunda of St. John the Baptist, one of the largest churches in the world with a dome second only to St. Peter’s in Rome. Its interior, a dazzling expanse of marble and gold, houses a stunning mosaic floor and a replica of the painting *‘The Beheading of St. John the Baptist’* by Caravaggio. Nearby, the smaller Church of the Annulation offers a more intimate glimpse into Maltese religious architecture, its facade adorned with intricate stone carvings. For history enthusiasts, the Xewkija Local Museum, housed in a 17th-century house, showcases artifacts from the village’s past, including traditional tools and textiles that tell the story of daily life through the centuries.

Food and Dining in Xewkija

In Xewkija, dining is less about fine dining and more about the simple, soul-satisfying flavors of Gozitan home cooking. The village’s eateries, often family-run, serve up hearty dishes like *‘bragioli’* (beef rolls stuffed with bacon and herbs) and *‘ftira’* (a traditional Maltese bread stuffed with tomatoes, olives, and tuna), all made with ingredients sourced from local farms. Don’t miss the chance to try *‘pastizzi,’* flaky pastry parcels filled with either ricotta or peas, a staple of Maltese snacking. For a true taste of Xewkija, visit the weekly market, where locals sell fresh produce, homemade preserves, and honey from the village’s own beehives, offering a delicious slice of rural life.

Festivals and Traditions in Xewkija

Xewkija’s heart beats strongest during the annual festa of St. John the Baptist, celebrated on June 24th. The village erupts in a week-long fiesta filled with brass bands, colorful processions, and fireworks that light up the night sky. The highlight is the statue of the patron saint, carried through the streets by devotees, accompanied by the rhythmic beat of drums and the scent of incense. Beyond the festa, Xewkija hosts a quieter but equally charming celebration during *‘Il-Ħadd fil-Villa,’* a Sunday event where local artisans and musicians gather in the village square, showcasing traditional crafts and folk music in a convivial, family-friendly atmosphere.

Getting to Xewkija

Reaching Xewkija is a journey in itself, beginning with a scenic ferry ride from Malta’s Ċirkewwa port to Gozo’s Mgarr Harbour, a 25-minute voyage that offers stunning views of the Comino channel. From Mgarr, Xewkija is just a 10-minute bus ride on route 301 or 302, which weave through Gozo’s rolling countryside, passing vineyards and sleepy villages. For those preferring to drive, the route is straightforward, with well-marked signs leading you directly to the village’s center. Taxis are also available for a more direct, though pricier, option.

Best Time to Visit Xewkija

The ideal time to visit Xewkija is during the spring (April to June) or autumn (September to October), when the weather is warm without being scorching, and the village is alive with blooming bougainvillea and golden light. Summer brings the festa and longer days, but also crowds and intense heat. Winter, though quieter, offers a different kind of beauty, with misty mornings and the chance to experience Xewkija’s cozy, fire-lit tavernas without the tourist throngs.

Fly direct to Malta — KM Malta Airlines operates direct flights from London Heathrow Terminal 4 and London Gatwick to Malta International Airport. Flight time approximately 3 hours. Search flights to Malta →